by Liron Ben-Horin

I had always read and heard about trips made by Israeli schools to the concentration camp “Auschwitz-Birkenau”. These trips are mandatory for all Israeli children and young adults. I always thought that these trips were exclusive to Israelis, Israeli schools and maybe Jews living in other countries. When I return to Israel, I too expected to be taking one of these trips.
Today, I’m proud to be able to write about such an experience made possible not by an Israeli school but by the American International School in Vienna.
Even more important, because of my assumptions, I felt like it wasn’t obvious that students from “all over the world” would go to such a difficult trip, and I was glad to see that so many students, faculty and parents from AIS taking part.
After a long overnight train ride, search for our hotel and warm breakfast, our journey began in the Old Town of Krakow where we learned a little about the long and proud history of Poland, the region of Galicia and Krakow itself. Our tour guide Jacek seemed to know stories about each building, tree and street that we passed.
Jacek took us to Kazimierz, the Jewish quarter of Krakow. In the 14th Century, when persecution of Jews was common throughout Europe, the Polish King Kasmir III invited Jews to Galicia, the southern part of Poland, to help invigorate the economy. They did and over the following centuries, many more Jews moved to Galicia and the towns and villages around Krakow. Jacek also told us that Poland (back then it was much larger than today, including parts of Lithuania, Belarus and Ukraine) as one of the first countries to pass a law of religious tolerance in 1573, granting religious freedom to not only Jews but to Orthodox, Protestants and Muslims living in Poland. He said that this was one of the earliest laws of religious tolerance in the world and although Poles did not always follow this ideal, that they were nonetheless proud of being one of the first nations to place such high respect for beliefs and religion.
Jacek took us to a number of different Synagogues, Temples and the Galician Jewish Museum. I was surprised that Krakow had so many Synagogues and also of the diversity of the Jewish community that lived there for almost 800 years. This all came to an end because of the Holocaust.
That process began in 1939 when Hitler and Stalin secretly agreed to partition Poland (the fourth time that has happened in history). The Nazis occupied Galicia and Krakow, setting up a new government there. They began the process of the “Final Solution”, removing the entire population of Kazimierz and sending them across the river to a new “ghetto”, which was completely walled in. This was the beginning of the end of the Jewish experience in Krakow.
Jacek took us to through the Nazi designed Ghetto and we saw a segment of the old Ghetto Wall. You could feel how oppressive this wall was. It was a symbol of separation. In the Ghetto area, we saw the “Umschlagplatz”, the place where Jews were told to line up in order to be sorted for work duties, medical experiments or deportation to one of the death camps. They have now built an impressive memorial on this site consisting of many empty chairs, each representing the tens of thousands of Jews who lined on this square each day to discover their fate until the Ghetto was liquidated on 14 March 1943 and everyone was sent to the death camps.
The movie “Schindler’s List” was filmed and took place in Krakow. It is a true story and we had the chance to visit the recently opened Schindler Factory Memorial where over 1,200 Jews worked under Oskar Schindler, a German industrialist and Nazi Party member who went through a radical change of heart and helped to save all of his workers from the fate of the death camps. The movie is remarkably accurate and worth seeing. Oskar Schindler was honored by Israel as one of the “Righteous Among the Nations” for his courageous acts when so few people did anything to stop the Holocaust.
After such a long day we went back to the hotel and reflected about what we saw in our journals.
The following morning was clearly the hardest. When we arrived to Auschwitz it was cold and snowy. It was hard to imagine those who walked in the same place half naked. We walked for hours between buildings and heard from our guide about the horrors that happened in each place. We got to see glasses, hair, bowls, suit cases, Tallit (worn during Jewish prayers), children cloth and shoes.
For me personally, the shoes were the hardest part. Thousands of shoes were just lying there, and each one of them represented a person that died in Auschwitz. It was hard to think that maybe some of this property belonged to someone from my family years ago. Later when we went throughout the crematoriums it was almost impossible to understand how many people took their last breath on the same ground that we stood on.
For me the most exciting moment of the trip was when we arrived at the Dutch exhibition. There, surprisingly, we found on the wall the name of my great grandfather, Ernst Waldner, and we learned for the first time the date of his death. I kept thinking that he was my mom and dad’s age when he was murdered, and I couldn’t imagine the life of my 6 year old grandmother so early living in an era of war without her father or mother.
Later, we got into “Birkenau”, which was the part of Auschwitz in which most people have died. There, we stood next to the memorial site in Hebrew that said “For eternity a sound of warning and cry will rise from this place for humanity. In this place the Nazis have murdered a million and half men, women and children, who came from different parts of Europe, mostly Jewish”. There, my mom and I have conducted a memorial ceremony in which we got to read the names of my family members who were murdered at Auschwitz.
My mom and I both agreed that by standing on this ground we can feel some sort of a small victory for our family. I was proud to feel that me standing there is a living proof for the Nazi’s loss. I think that the most important conclusion we all took from this trip is that this message should be given and to be understood. We have to remember what happened there and we can never forget.